Tutorial – Mini Charm Medallion Cushion, Part 2

Welcome to Part 2 of the Mini Charm Medallion Patchwork Cushion Tutorial! It’s a fun little project that doesn’t need much fabric – just one mini charm pack and one Fat Quarter (or you could raid your scrap bin!) and uses a lot of the basic quilting skills that were covered in #QuiltingTheory.

You can find Part 1 here where the materials, cutting preparation and instructions are detailed.

Mini Charm Medallion Patchwork Cushion tutorial

Today, we are going to finish our cushion top (or mini quilt/table runner….whatever you fancy!) by adding the final borders.

Border 3

  • Take 2 (two) 2″ x 6.5″ strips. Place Right Sides together on opposite sides of the Centre Star, and sew. Press border pieces away from centre block.
Mini Charm Medallion Cushion Part 2, attaching the borders
  • Take 2 (two) remaining 2″ x 6.5″ strips and 4 (four) 2″ squares.
  • Place a square either end of each strip, and sew Right Sides Together. Press.
  • Place strips on the remaining side edges of the star and sew. To help with accuracy, nest the seams of the corner blocks, pressing them towards the strip.

Finished size: 14″ including seam allowance.

Border 4 – HSTs and 4-patch cornerstone

  • Pair 18 (eighteen) mini charm squares Right Sides Together with background squares and make HSTs using the same method as for the Centre Star.
Mini Charm Medallion Cushion Part 2, chain piecing HSTs
  • Sew 2 (two) HST strips to opposite sides of the mini-charm medallion top.
  • Arrange and sew together into 4 (four) strips of 9 (nine) HSTs – I like to chain-piece mine together in rows, as pictured above for speed and also so that I don’t lose my arrangement!

TIPS FOR SEWING HST BORDER: press the seams open to reduce bulk. Sew with the wrong side of the HSTs facing up – this helps to ensure that all the seams are open as you sew, as well as ensuring that your stitching line matches the bottom points of the triangles.

  • Take the 2 (two) remaining mini charm squares and background squares Measure and draw a line 1.25″ from one edge of either the mini charm or background squares (depending on which one will show the line better!)
  • Pair a mini charm and background square Right Sides Together. Sew 1/4″ either side of the pencil line on both squares (A).
  • Cut each pair in two by cutting along the pencil line, for a total of 4 (four) units. Finger press open. Draw a line 1.25″ from one edge at a right angle to the join to form squares and again sew 1/4″ either side of this line (B).
  • Cut each unit in half again along the pencil line to provide 4 (four) 4-patch units to go in each corner.
Mini Charm Medallion Cushion Part 2, joining the HST border
  • Place a 4-patch unit at each end of the two remaining HST strips and sew, before joining to the remaining sides. Press.

Finished size: 17″ including seam allowance.

Mini Charm Medallion Patchwork Cushion tutorial

And there we go – all finished!

I made mine into a cushion with a hidden zip……you can find a tutorial here. It’s one of my favourite, quick ways of achieving a lovely looking zip with minimum effort!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial – do let me know if you have any questions. And don’t forget to use #minicharmmedallion if you do make one!

S x

Today’s sky::: beautifully blue – it feels like summer might be on it’s way!

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Mini Charm Medallion Patchwork Cushion tutorial

Making Hugh the Hound

As soon as I saw Hugh the Hound, I just knew that I would be making him at some point! He’s a bit tricksy but lots of fun to make and I’ve included some tips for sewing his head and inserting the foot pads (which you can use for all of Luna Lapin and friends).

Making Hugh the Hound (pattern by CoolCrafting) and tips for sewing dungarees and handsewn scarf by fabricandflowers

NOTE: this post may contain affiliate links and you can read my full disclosure privacy policy here. Thank you.

I ordered a Make Me Hugh the Hound kit from CoolCrafting in the tan colourway but had already decided to use the patterns from Sewing Luna Lapin’s Friends to make some clothes.

Having already made Luna and Alfie Rabbit, I wasn’t feeling too nervous about making Hugh. Like the rabbits, most of the body parts are over-sewn together. The construction of the legs and body is slightly different, as the legs are fully poseable (similar to Luna’s arms) but the instructions are easy enough.

Sewing the head for Hugh the Hound

The head though……now that required a little bit of head-scratching!!!! A few things I did (sometimes as a result of some un-sewing!) which might be useful are;

  • Tacked the side head on the upper head before sewing in place with a blanket stitch on the machine as this gave me much greater accuracy.
  • Hand sewed the nose in position, leaving a 1cm overlap, as per the pattern. On the underside of the flews (jowls) I used double thread to sew the little roll of felt in place (to help give the nose shape) and each corner of the nose down.
  • Used a long pin when pulling the nose into position to try and get it just right before sewing, using the tail of the doubled up thread! I found that trying to match up the two corners of the nose (that were sewn down in the previous step) on the underside of the mouth gave the best result.
  • When securing the nose in position, try to not to pull the threads too tight. Even though I thought I hadn’t, it still looks like there is a slight dimple on one side so I would be more careful at this stage next time.
  • I wasn’t entirely sure from the instructions on how to sew up the neck so that there wasn’t a gap left between the neck and the lower jaw. Eventually, I ladder-stitched one flap in position, before folding the other flap over, going back over my stitches and down the neck. This seemed to give quite a neat finish.

Inserting the foot pads for Hugh (and Luna Lapin’s Friends!)

I thought it might be worth adding a few pics of how I sew the foot-pads as it seems to be one of the steps people find a bit tricky. I’m not sure this is the recommended way, but it’s what works for me!

  • Fold the foot in half lengthwise and place a pin on the centre line at each end.
  • The foot-pads are ever so slightly narrower at one end, so you want to make sure that you are inserting them both the same way. Fold them in half – heel to toe – to identify which end is narrower.
  • Decide which way round you want to position the narrow end of the foot pad, and match the centre pin with a foot seam. Pin in place.
  • Repeat at the other end of the foot.
  • With the foot-pad facing up, start sewing halfway down one of the sides, using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Sew slowly around the curves, re-positioning the felt if you need to until finished.
  • Turn the foot out.

Other tips for sewing Hugh

When adding the legs to the body, I actually snapped the elastic thread whilst trying to pull them together! Nightmare! My top tip is – if you have someone to hand – ask them to squeeze the legs together whilst you’re knotting the elastic. That way, there’s not as much pressure on the elastic and two pairs of hand definitely make this bit easier!

Making clothes for Hugh the Hound

When it came to dressing Hugh, I was going for an artists vibe! The dungarees for Freddie Badger from Sewing Luna Lapin’s Friends seemed the basis of the perfect outfit. I used a cotton-linen mix fabric that is loosely woven and I’m not sure that Hugh has the same body shape as Freddie which led to a few challenges!

Making Hugh the Hound (pattern by CoolCrafting) and tips for sewing dungarees and handsewn scarf by fabricandflowers

I made the dungarees up as per the instructions in the book and tried them on Hugh before adding the facing and the straps. They were huge! To get a good fit I made a few tweaks;

  • Hand-stitching the hems for the pockets, although I think this helps to add to the artist vibe!
  • Took another 1/4″ off the front and back centre seams (but did not adjust the crotch).
  • Left a 1″ hole in the back seam for the tail to go through (I tried the dungarees on and eyeballed where this should be placed!!!)
  • Took approximately 1/2-1″ off the height of the front and back bib so that they fitted properly. Reshaped the back to get the right shape at the top to attach the straps.
  • Joined the facing all the way around except across the top of the back bib. I then placed the straps on to figure out how exactly where I should sew them in position before finishing the seam (if I were using a cotton fabric I might have gone for trial and error but this fabric was not very forgiving!!!).
Making Hugh the Hound (pattern by CoolCrafting) and tips for sewing dungarees and handsewn scarf by fabricandflowers

The final touch was a little Liberty Scarf with a hand-rolled hem (partly because it was a tiny piece of fabric and also because I was finishing it in the car on the way to the party!!!). There are excellent instructions for how to do a hand-rolled hem here if you would like to do the same.

Making Hugh the Hound (pattern by CoolCrafting) and tips for sewing dungarees and handsewn scarf by fabricandflowers

Have you made any Luna Lapin and Friends yet? They are quite addictive I have to say and I do love personalising them….how long until I make another do you think?!

S x

Today’s sky::: beautifully sunny and blue skies.

#QuiltingTheory – Seam Allowance

Helloooo! And welcome back to Week 2 of the #QuiltingTheory series. Today, we’re looking at the Seam Allowance. This may be a term that you’re already aware of – especially if you’ve done some sewing before. One of the main things to know is that as quilters, we nearly always work in Inches (in comparison to dressmakers, who tend to work in centimetres), no matter what country you’re from! Which can then get a bit confusing when you’re ordering fabric in metres….but I digress!

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills, starting with The Seam Allowance and a Scant Quarter Inch by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence

NOTE: this post may contain affiliate links and you can read my full disclosure privacy policy here. Thank you.

What is a Seam Allowance?

Simply put, a seam allowance is the distance from the edge of the fabric to the stitching line. Generally, quilters work with a 1/4″ seam allowance. This means there is enough fabric for the seam to survive natural wear and tear and stay secure, and not too much that it leaves the seam bulky on a finished block.

When I first started quilting, I worked out a 1/4″ on my sewing machine foot and off I went. All went well to start with: strictly speaking, if you’re sewing squares together, it doesn’t matter if your seam allowance is a smidge bigger/smaller than 1/4″: if you’re using the same allowance on all pieces of fabric, you will still end up with a square!

Sewing a 1/4″ Seam Allowance

There are a few ways to figure out how to sew a 1/4″ seam allowance on your sewing machine.

Sewing machines often come with a few different sewing feet. A ‘standard’ foot (which is the ‘A’ foot on my Janome, pictured on the left) is included with all machines, and sometimes you may receive a 1/4″ foot depending on what machine you have (the ‘O’ foot, pictured on the left). These can often be bought separately which is useful if you enjoy quilting – just make sure that it’s compatible with your machine!

There are a few ways to find out what to use as a guide mark for achieving your 1/4″ seam allowance, and these can be used for both types of sewing feet, although here I have only demonstrated with the standard foot;

  • Look at the measurement marks on the bed of your sewing machine and keep the edge of the fabric in line with this as you sew.
  • Place the foot on top of a ruler and look at where a 1/4″ measures from the centre of the foot – for my machine, that means keeping the edge of the fabric in line with the edge of the hole where the needle sits/the transparent section of the foot.
  • Sit at your sewing machine, and with the needle in the down position and the foot on the bed of the sewing machine, place a ruler (I’ve used this one!) matching the 1/4″ against the needle and look at where ‘0’ is on your sewing foot.

Personally, I like to measure from the needle position as I’ve found that every machine I’ve had is slightly different and the 1/4″ isn’t quite as accurate as I would like! Generally speaking, with the Janome a 1/4″ is at the intersection of the transparent/metal join at the front of the foot.

What is a scant 1/4 seam allowance?

To sew with a scant 1/4″ essentially means to sew the seam slightly less than 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric, so that the thickness of the thread and the little bit of fabric that is lost in the fold when opening the pieces out takes the total seam allowance up to 1/4″.

At this point, you are probably thinking quilters are crazy! We’re arguing over maybe the width of a piece of thread?!?! And I mean, how much difference can that really make?! The honest answer is that it very much depends on what you are doing. If you’re sewing together squares of fabric until you reach a quilt size you like, you don’t need to worry about this just now!

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills, starting with The Seam Allowance and a Scant Quarter Inch by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence

However, if you are working on a block that is made up of lots of pieces, or working on a small block, seam accuracy really starts to matter. A slight discrepancy of 1/32″ per piece/block can soon add to become a big issue: I once had to unpick a whole border round on a medallion quilt because it finished 3/4″ smaller than it should have done (I was working with small 1.25″ squares which is why it had such an impact!)……sooo frustrating, but all part of the learning curve. At least, that’s what I was trying to tell myself at the time!

Working out a Scant 1/4″ Allowance on your machine

We’ve already talked about how to find the 1/4″ position on your machine. For a scant allowance, you will need to sew slightly closer to the edge of the fabric, which can take a bit of trial and error. There are a couple of ways of doing this depending on your machine;

  • Re-position the needle
  • Re-position the fabric

If you can, repositioning the needle is easier than trying to realign the fabric by such a small amount, and easier to replicate time and again.

This will very much depend on whether you are able to shift the position of your needle. On my machine, which is digital, you can use the Width setting to shift the needle left or right by slight increments.

Some machines have a 1/4″ setting – for me, this automatically gives a needle position of 8.3. However, to get a scant seam allowance, I have to increase it to 8.8 (shifting the needle to the right as you look at the machine).

I make this change each time I switch my machine on, and it soon becomes habit! You should check the handbook for your own machine to see if and how you can re-position your needle.

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills, starting with The Seam Allowance and a Scant Quarter Inch by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence

If you need to re-position the fabric, it can be helpful to mark the bed of the sewing machine – Washi Tape is a really good way of creating a guideline to follow without permanently damaging/marking your sewing machine, is easily replaced and relocated if swapping between projects. Although if you have a top-loading bobbin like I do, you may want to make sure it’s full before putting the tape in place!

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills, starting with The Seam Allowance and a Scant Quarter Inch by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence

The best way to check for a Scant 1/4″ Allowance is to take three pieces of fabric 2.5″ square. Place two pieces Right Sides Together (RST) and sew along one side. Open out and place the final piece RST with one of the squares and sew so that you have a row of three squares stitched together. Press with the seams to one side and measure the centre square. If it measures 2″ you have achieved a scant seam allowance. If it’s slightly under/over this measurement, then repeat the steps above.

It may take a few attempts, but only needs to be done once (although I would always recommend re-doing these steps if you get a new machine) and is well worth the effort before embarking on a big, or small, project!

Some exceptions!

As always, there are some occasions when you can/need to use something different to a 1/4″ seam allowance (scant or otherwise!);

  • English Paper Piecing (EPP): some quilters prefer to use a bigger seam allowance – generally 3/8″ – when wrapping fabric around paper shapes. This can make it easier to prepare the pieces and allows for the fraying that can occur with the handling of fabric over time but is very much down to personal preference.
  • Basting: If making accessories eg. a pouch, you may need to join two (or more) pieces of fabric temporarily. This is done by using a longer stitch on the machine – or hand stitching – normally within the seam allowance eg. at 1/8″
  • Pattern: although most patterns use common abbreviations and techniques, I would always recommend reading through a pattern before starting a project to make sure that you understand all the standard definitions, and seam allowances that the designer recommends.

And that’s all for Seam Allowance! I hope it’s helpful for you in your sewing journey? If you have any questions then let me know and come back next week when we’ll be looking at fabric. I’ll try not to get too lost in my stash over the coming week whilst I’m doing some research…..!!!!!!

To see all the other posts in this series, you can see the schedule here;

See you soon,


Today’s sky::: overcast, grey. Generally miserable. Meh!

If you would like monthly news and updates, please sign-up to my newsletter.
To check out my quilt and bag patterns, visit my Etsy shop.

For my favourite sewing equipment and tools, visit my Amazon store.

#QuiltingTheory – The Lingo

Hello! And welcome to the first post in the #QuiltingTheory series! Today, we are going to start with all the different quilting definitions, abbreviations and acronyms – or the lingo, if you’d rather! – that is commonly used.

Before we start though, I would like to cover off something that I found really confusing when I started this journey – What is a quilter?! Strictly speaking, patchwork is the cutting up of fabric and stitching it back together again to make lovely patterns. Quilting is the process of placing a number of fabric layers together and stitching through them, often sewing a decorative pattern in the process. Over time, these terms have become interchangeable and Quilter has become shorthand for someone who does either patchwork or quilting. This can encompass quilts, cushions, pouches and other accessories. Once I started quilting I found lots of different projects I could add patchwork too!

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills, starting with The Lingo by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence

Now, I confess that this is a long post. I figured it would be beneficial to keep all of the definitions together. To make it easier to navigate, I have split the quilting lingo into broad categories – you can click on the titles below to jump straight to a section – but you may still want to pin this for future reference!


To find more detail on seams, including how to achieve the correct seam allowance, check out #QuiltingTheory Seam Allowance.

For this week though, we are looking at the most generally used terms;

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence
SA Seam AllowanceThe seam allowance is the distance that you sew from the edge of the fabric. For quilting, this is generally 1/4" unless otherwise specified in a pattern.
ScantA seam allowance that is just under a 1/4" seam allowance
Nest SeamsWhen sewing rows of blocks together, the seams for Row A are pressed to eg. The left, and the seams for Row B are pressed in the opposite direction eg. The right. When the rows are placed together for sewing the seams on each row sit - or nest - together neatly allowing for greater accuracy in joining them together (pictured).
Press SeamsTo press a seam, an iron is placed on top of the fabric seam and pressed down, before being moved to another section of the seam and repeating the action. Seams are not ironed in a traditional way to avoid stretching the fabric. In quilting, seams are either pressed open or to one side (normally the side with the darker fabric), depending on what is being sewn.

Fabric / Materials

This week we will look at the different fabric cuts that you can buy – for even more detail check out #QuiltingTheory Fabric here.

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence
SelvedgeThe edge of each side of fabric, this is generally trimmed off.
WOFWidth of FabricMost quilting cotton measures 44" wide from edge to edge, or 42" if you exclude the selvedge from each side. You can also get wider fabric eg. 108" wide which is great for backings
FE / F8Fat EighthA piece of fabric measuring 21" wide x 9" tall
FQFat QuarterA piece of fabric measuring 21" wide x 18" tall
Jelly RollA pack of 42 x 2.5" Width of Fabric strips from one collection
Mini Charm (Candy) PackA pack of 42 x 2.5" squares from one collection
Charm PackA pack of 42 x 5" squares from one collection
Layer CakeA pack of 42 x 10" squares from one collection
Dessert CutsA pack of 12 strips measuring 5" x Width of Fabric
BiasFabric cut at a 45* angle to the selvedge, which gives it more stretch.
RSRight SideThe front of the fabric (stronger in colour)
RSTRight Side TogetherPlacing two pieces of fabric (or folding one piece of fabric in half) front sides together.
WSWrong SideThe back of the fabric (duller in colour)
WSTWrong Side TogetherPlacing two pieces of fabric (or folding one piece of fabric in half) wrong sides together.


There are lots of tools that you can use in your quilting journey, which I will cover off in Week 4. Listed below are the ones that you will most likely come across, or even want to buy, when you first start out – you can see all my favourite tools here!

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence
Rotary CutterThis is like a pizza-cutter, but specifically used for cutting fabric. The blades are very sharp and are able to cut through multiple layers of fabric at a time, so are brilliant for cutting out large projects! They have a protective cover on them and the blades can be replaced as they dull.
Cutting MatThese come in lots of different sizes and are often called self-healing as the mat as they are made from a material which closes back together. It is best to always use a sharp rotary cutter and not to always cut in the same place to minimise any potential damage.
Quilting RulerAvailable in lots of different shapes and sizes. When used with a rotary cutter, they enable you to cut multiple strips/pieces of fabric quickly and accurately.
Wonder ClipsHandy for keeping lots of layers together - especially for fabrics that may be marked with a pin - binding, and keeping pieces of fabric/patterns together.
NeedlesThere are lots of different needles available for hand-sewing - varying in length, thickness and the size of the eye where you put the thread through. Favourite needles are very often a personal preference - I like to use a very fine needle, but will use different needles depending on what fabric I'm sewing with and what I'm actually sewing! (you can find my favourite needles by clicking on the link above).
ThreadFor quilting, it is always recommended to use thread that is made out of the same fibres as the fabric eg. Cotton thread with cotton fabric. This helps to minimise wear and tear on the fabric and help the quilt to last.


There are many different ways that patchwork can be put together, the ones that you will most likely come across in the beginning are;

BastingA way of joining layers together, generally by stitching, with the basting thread being removed once the layers have been properly secured. This can be done by hand with big stitches and is a great way of using up the odds and ends of thread that are left on a spool/bobbin. Alternatively, it can be done on a sewing machine , using a longer stitch length and within the seam allowance eg. if you are working with a 1/4" seam allowance you would baste at 1/8" inch.
EPPEnglish Paper PiecingA traditional form of patchwork where fabric is wrapped around a piece of paper eg. a hexagon, and secured with either basting stitches or glue sticks. Each of the hexagons are then sewn together to create a larger piece such as a cushion/quilt.
FPPFoundation Paper PiecingThis is used to achieve complex shapes and very accurate piecing. The pattern is printed on to paper and the fabric is sewn on to the reverse side of the paper, with the pattern on the front dictating where the lines should be stitched.
HSTHalf Square TrianglesTwo right angle triangles sewn together to form a square. Can be used to create lots of different patterns!
Leaders/EndersA piece of fabric that is used to begin stitching on before moving on to the actual pieces of your quilt. Some machines can chew fabric at the beginning of a new seam or end up with a tangle of threads at the back. By using a leader/ender, if there are any issues the quilt blocks remain unblighted. Some quilters use the leaders/enders as a separate project - a 2 for 1 project - or you can just use a scrap piece of fabric!
Machine-pieceFabric pieces sewn together using a sewing machine
Chain-pieceWhen sewing fabric pieces together by machine, the pairs are sewn together one after the other with a little chain of stitches between them. You end up with a long chain of pieces - almost like bunting! - and when the joining chains are snipped you end up with the individual pairs/blocks. This can help to speed up the process of sewing pieces together - especially useful on a big project! - and also helps to reduce the amount of thread that is wasted.
Hand-pieceSewing pieces of fabric together by hand. The sewing lines are generally drawn on the back as a guide to sew along.
AppliqueFabric shapes are cut out and placed on the front (right side) of a piece of fabric and stitched in position. This can be needle-turned, where the raw edge is folded under and hand-stitched in place, or machine stitched in position, often using a blanket stitch.
ImprovSewing pieces of fabric together in a random way to create fun and interesting patterns, not following a pattern.
Whole ClothOne piece of fabric is used for the front of a quilt and the pattern is created wholly through stitching (by machine or hand).
Y seamsAlso called inset or set-in seams, these occur when three or more pieces of fabric meet, often forming a Y shape, such as when joining hexagons together. The can be joined together by hand or by machine with a bit of practise.
Top StitchStitching added to a project - mostly pouches/bags and dressmaking - to secure and add strength to a seam/edge and add decorative detail.
Slip StitchMost often used for hems or somewhere that you don't want visible stitching such as applique or binding.
Ladder StitchOften used to close a gap that has been left for turning an item out eg. A pouch or soft toy. The stitch is carried from one edge of the hole to the other, creating an invisible closure.


The terms and phrases most frequently associated with the quilting stage of making a quilt;

Batting / WaddingThe layer that goes between the quilt top and the backing fabric - it's what makes a quilt lovely, warm and snuggly! There are lots of different materials available - cotton, wool, bamboo.
LoftThis indicates the thickness of the wadding - they can vary from thin to thick depending on the material used. Generally, the thicker the wadding the more difficult it can be to quilt.
BastingBasting a quilt refers to joining the top layer (patchwork), the middle layer (the wadding) and the bottom layer (the backing fabric). This can be done in a number of different ways - using pins, spray glue or thread….it often depends on personal preference and the size of the project!
QAYGQuilt as you GoThis technique can be used in a couple of different ways. For a smaller project, such as a pouch, a piece of fabric will be laid directly on some wadding and stitched in place. Other pieces of fabric will be added in a similar manner. For a larger project such as a quilt, the blocks can be quilted individually before being joined together (this can be useful on really big quilts that would be too tricky to stitch on a domestic sewing machine)
Echo QuiltingStitching around a shape in the quilt, and repeating this with the lines spaced equally apart.
FMQFree Motion QuiltingSewing a pattern on the quilt using a sewing machine - these can range from basic meandering to highly elaborate patterns.
KanthaHand-stitching in big running stitches, often with rows close together to create a beautiful texture
Long ArmSpecialist machines that are used for Free Motion Quilting. If you have made a special quilt, are not confident at quilting or you have a project that is simply too big to tackle on your machine, you can send your quilt to someone who specialises in quilting.
BindingA piece of fabric that is wrapped around the edge of the quilt to hide the raw edges and secure all the layers together. It gives a lovely finish to the quilt and helps to frame the design.


Other words and phrases that I kept coming across when I started this journey that didn’t quite fit into any of the other categories!

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence
WIPWork in ProgressMost people (well, I'm hoping it's not just me, anyway!) have a few projects in various stages
UFOUnFinished ObjectSimilar to a WIP!
BOMBlock of the MonthThere are lots of fun programmes/clubs that you can join where you receive the pattern for a new block each month. Some are free, some you pay for and they are both a great way of trying out new skills with a community of people. At the end of the programme, you will have a completed project. They often run over a year but can also run weekly/bi-monthly.
Dog-earsA term used to describe the little triangular ends that sit outside the seams of the blocks when you've made half-square triangle blocks. Personally, I prefer to trim the dog-ears off my blocks before sewing them together as I find it helps with accuracy, but you can just leave them (see picture above)
FlimsySometimes used to describe a quilt top where all the blocks have been joined together, but it hasn't yet been made into a quilt.
Design WallA 'sticky' wall that blocks can be placed on when making a quilt to ensure correct colour placement. Often, this is a piece of wadding stuck on a wall. If you don't have enough wall space, you can use a pin to secure blocks to a sheet which can be folded up, or I find the floor works just as well (best when the kids aren't around!)

Phew! That was quite mammoth, wasn’t it?! I hope that it has all been useful? There are many more terms, but these should cover the key ones that you come across in the beginning. If there’s any that you think I’ve missed out though, then please do let me know!

Come back next week when we will be looking at Seam Allowance in a lot more detail and please drop me a line if you have any questions,

Back Soon,

S x

Today’s sky::: overcast, raining. Generally yuk!

If you would like monthly news and updates, please sign-up to my newsletter.
To check out my quilt and bag patterns, visit my Etsy shop.

For my favourite sewing equipment and tools, visit my Amazon store.

#QuiltingTheory – an introduction

If you’ve visited this blog before, you probably know that since making my first quilt back in 2012 I have fallen head over heels in love with sewing. It’s something I’m really passionate about and want to get everyone doing!!!

#QuiltingTheory - learn everything you need to know to begin quilting and grow your skills by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence

Over the years, I’ve encouraged people to pick up a needle and thread and have even managed to convert a few people (hurrah!). In the beginning, there are so many new things to try and understand though. When you first want to start learning how to quilt, it can feel like a whole other language!

I’ve been asked questions, shared tips, and taught workshops and one day it occurred to me: wouldn’t it be great if there was a quilting equivalent of the Driving Theory Test? Somewhere you could find all the information that you need in the beginning to fully understand patchwork and quilting before actually picking up a needle and thread??? Also, I used to work in Market Research so this really appeals to my geeky side!

What is #QuiltingTheory?

During the #QuiltingTheory series, I will go through each of the key areas – the lingo, seam allowance, fabric, essential tools (although if you want a sneak peek, you can shop my favourite tools here!) and the making of a quilt. I will breakdown what things mean and explain the principles behind each of the different steps so that you can learn everything you need to know to begin quilting.

Mini Medallion Cushion tutorial for #QuiltingTheory series by fabricandflowers | Sonia Spence

At the end of the series, I have got a Practical for you – a cushion tutorial. This is a great small project to try out a few of the techniques and the knowledge that you will learn during the series, without blowing the budget or taking too much time!

#QuiltingTheory timings

Once the basics have been covered, I will continue adding to #QuiltingTheory. This will include ‘practical’ articles (tutorials/demos) and a more in-depth look at some of the trickier skills/topics to build a library of information that you can dip into as needed.

I really hope you enjoy this series and if there’s anything in particular that you’d like me to cover (now, or in the future!), or if you have any questions then please do drop me a line! And please do share with others that you think might find it interesting!


S x

Today’s sky::: overcast and wet, but not too cold!

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To check out my quilt and bag patterns, visit my Etsy shop.

For my favourite sewing equipment and tools, visit my Amazon store.